Zimbabwe’s Victoria Falls

Zimbabwe Tourism Authority

Moments before we landed at Victoria Falls with Zimbabwe Express Airlines, the pilot announced that our aircraft was about to be used for the production of an advertisement.

It was September, 1996.

Such a thing could not happen these days and the airline did close down in 1999.

We had no choice. I thought it incredible how there was not a single word of complaint from any one of the 125 passengers on board.

Our aircraft would bank steeply above the falls so that spectacular photographs could be taken of us from a helicopter flying nearby.

A thrill for some I suppose, but an incredible imposition for others.

I was at a window seat, always my choice, and I wasn’t sure how I felt about it.

Anyhow, the views as we tilted steeply and repeatedly above the Falls, were indeed fantastic. To be performing such antics in such a large aircraft, however, was alarming to say the least.

 I was very pleased when we landed safely.

During the wet season, the width of the Victoria Falls can be nearly one mile.

It was September and drier than usual when we visited, so the volume of water was not so great. The Falls were broken into numerous cascades. 

 There are merits for visiting Victoria Falls at all times of year. One advantage of the drier season is that you can actually see the Falls.

 When they are at their widest, such an enormous amount of mist is created that it is often impossible to see more than an outline of the torrents thundering into the 355 feet (108 metres) deep chasm. One must carry an umbrella and take particular care of photographic equipment.

 The walk along the cliff face opposite the Falls, must be one of the most spectacular short walks in the world.

After having flown over such vast parched and arid plains on the way to Victoria Falls, it felt strange to find oneself deep in a rainforest. The constant mist created by the Falls maintains a dense rainforest which covers much of the walk. 

Short pathways lead from the main footpath, affording magnificent vistas which change every few yards. Beautiful rainbows often enfold the Falls in picture-perfect compositions. This is a photograph I took in 1996. It has deteriorated unfortunately. 

Livingstone Island, on the Zambian side of the Falls, was so named because it was where the explorer David Livingstone crawled on his hands and knees to the edge of the ravine. He lowered a stone to measure the depth of the gorge.

 I found it unnerving to see people playing so dangerously close to the edge. See the old photograph below.

 An evening Sundowner Cruise on the waters above the Falls affords the opportunity to see both a beautiful sunset and, with luck, some wildlife. We saw elephant and hippo as well as abundant bird life.

Those who are more energetic and perhaps more daring, can enjoy the sunset from a self-paddled canoe. We chose the boat.

A local guide with whom I became acquainted, related an occasion when one of his colleagues happened to paddle over a nursing hippopotamus. The hippo overturned the canoe, clenched its occupant in her powerful jaws and drowned him. Another guide who attempted a rescue, lost an arm. Hippos are dangerous.

In order to avoid the crowds in Victoria Falls town, one can choose to stay upstream, on the banks of the Zambezi River. An excellent choice is African Bush Camp’s property,

Thorntree River Lodge. It’s just twenty minutes’ drive and offers exquisite views perched on the banks of the Zambezi River. Thorntree offers an array of activities which include guided walking safaris, game drives, canoeing, catch and release fishing and boat cruises all led by our qualified and passionate guides who will share their knowledge and love of the bush with you.

 From Victoria Falls we joined something unusual, a safari by train. This was on board a wonderful old restored steam train called “Rail Safari”

 It was in 1996 that we travelled and whilst the train has been out of service for some years, it has recently been resurrected as the “Stimela Star”. I will tell you more about it in a coming issue.

 If you would like to learn more about a safari, a Victoria Falls visit, or a ride on the wonderful “Stimela Star”, please contact Graham for advice and assistance. graham.elsom@jebsenholidays.com

 Zimbabwe offers exceptional safari opportunities and you can fly directly into Victoria Falls Airport.

 African Bush Camps, with camps based in Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe, and represented in Hong Kong by Jebsen Holidays, offer safaris of varying degrees of luxury and adventure. They also have six properties dedicated to family safaris, Thorntree River Lodge, Bumi Hills Safari Lodge based in one of Zimbabwe’s finest wilderness locations overlooking Lake Kariba, Nyamatusi Mahogany located in one of Africa’s last remaining wild frontiers, Mana Pools National Park, Somalisa Acacia in the heart of the Hwange National Park, Khwai Bush Camp and Linyanti Ebony add to African Bush Camps Botswana offerings. These camps offer child specialist guides/hosts who will stimulate children through activities and learning.

Please take a few moments to consider what they have to offer. https://africanbushcamps.com

A selection of photographs covering Graham’s visit to Zimbabwe in 1996 can be seen with this link. https://photos.app.goo.gl/XyazG4a7mRAqraQW9