A Walking Safari near Bulawayo, Zimbabwe

Bulawayo, the second largest city in Zimbabwe after Harare the capital, and it is the gateway to Matobo National Park, home to the Motobo Hills rock formations and much Stone Age cave art.

For my visit in September, 1996, we were fortunate to be there for the annual display of Jacaranda trees. Most of Bulawayo’s broad avenues were lined with these beautiful trees and they are interspersed with multi-coloured bougainvillea.

Bulawayo in 1996.

The most important visitor attraction of Bulawayo, however, is the nearby Matobo Hills, a region of spectacular boulder-strewn mountains and the chosen resting place of Cecil John Rhodes, famed for establishing the Rhodes Scholarship, the world's first international study programme.

We stayed at the Matobos in the unique Amarinda Lodge, which is still operating. I say unique because the accommodations and the public areas are built directly into the mountainside, fully utilizing the huge boulders. One was reminded of a popular television series at the time, “The Flintstones”. Guestrooms are virtual caves, decorated with colourful examples of Zimbabwean fabrics and handicrafts.

Also in the heart of the Matobo Hills is a additional Africa Bush Camps property, Khayelitshe House, a property which Jebsen Holidays represents and which inspires a feeling of remoteness that is hard to capture. The fully serviced property consists of 4 en-suite bedrooms with incredible views from every window.

https://africanbushcamps.com/camps/khayelitshe-house/

Game drives and sightseeing excursions operate from the Lodge in open game vehicles. Black rhino and white rhino are the main attraction on any game drive, although if you are exceedingly lucky, you might encounter a leopard. Matobos Nature Park has the largest concentration of leopard in the region, but the rocks and caves make ideal hiding places and they are seldom seen.

I was somewhat taken aback when our game-drive guide suggested that we climb down from our open truck and take a stroll. I had always thought the idea of a game “walk” was intimidating but realized that it is in fact the most authentic interaction with nature in its wildest form.

Our guide, who has undergone vigorous training and is an expert in his field wanted us to experience a herd of wildlife at close range.

Nearby, were four large rhinos, an incredible sighting considering they are a highly endangered species. Their prehistoric look and movement fascinated me.

We walked towards the rhinos with a party of six Americans who had apparently already travelled extensively in Africa.

Before we approached the rhinos, our guide provided a briefing on what we should do in the rare chance that they charge. There was little to worry about, however, because rhinos have very poor eyesight and our guide, a professional, showed huge respect for these amazing creatures. All we had to do was follow our guides instruction to run behind a tree, and the animals would run straight past us. There was nothing to fear at all.

I felt a sense of unease amongst the group and I couldn’t help but reflect on how rare an experience this was that we were embarking on. In today’s society it is a rare occasion to be fully submerged in the wilderness, exposed to nature as it was before human development. A somber moment it was, to be in tune with myself, my environment and my vulnerability with in it. A rare moment indeed.

When we found ourselves confronted by the three largest rhinos, which were not only staring at us but slowly walking towards us, I felt my pulse quicken and it was at this moment I truly realized the exotic beauty of Africa and her wildlife.

Our guide remained composed and professional but sensing some of the lady’s anxiety, he suggested we return to the vehicle and continue our safari from there. I later discovered that the reason we were able to experience a walking safari was because he was the only guide around qualified and holding the permit to conduct such an excursion on foot.

Later, as we sat quietly in our vehicle sipping a drink and watching the sun set over a small pond, our guide, a natural storyteller, shared some of his experience through his guiding career. It was a wonderful end to an invigorating day. I had felt my heart truly beat to the tune of wild Zimbabwe.

If you would like to consider a visit to Zimbabwe, perhaps a walking safari, please contact me. graham.elsom@jebsenholidays.com