A “Rail Safari” on board “Stimela Star”, Zimbabwe

After a spectacular visit to famed Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, we were fortunate to find ourselves on board a wonderful old steam train called “Rail Safari”. It was September, 1996 and the superbly restored old train was managed by a charming British couple.

As is still the case today, the train operates between Victoria Falls and Zimbabwe’s second city, Bulawayo, travelling through the vast Hwange National Park.

Those who have been living in Hong Kong for some time may remember the high society “Bela Vista Ball” set. Their Annual Ball at the much loved old Bela Vista Hotel in Macau, now the residence of the Portuguese Consul General, was always prominent in Hong Kong’s social calendar. The group also travelled overseas together and one of their tours included the “Rail Safari”. The couple who operated the train told me all about their charter. It wasn’t all good.

The journey at the time was called “Rail Safari” because the train passed through Hwange National Park, the third largest National Park in Africa. The trip originated in Victoria Falls and ended in Bulawayo, or vice versa.  

The rail line to Hwange was constructed at the turn of the 20th century and was part of the British imperial dream of a railway all the way from Capetown to Cairo.

In the decades since Zimbabwe declared independence in 1980, the country’s passenger rail services deteriorated to the point where visitors opted to drive or fly into Hwange National Park. 

We were fortunate to travel on this beautifully restored train, which was and still is, the target of railway enthusiasts from all over the world.  

It was incredible to see fully grown men behaving like over-excited school-boys. Those with the correct papers were permitted to ride in the mighty steam engine. They could watch or participate in the stoking of the roaring furnace amid the hissing clouds of steam. 

One passenger had already booked on the much more deluxe, fully air-conditioned, Rovos rail journey in South Africa, but he decided to cancel that trip because he would not be able to open the windows and listen to the steam engine. He was also disappointed that the Rovos Rail train was steam-hauled for only a token distance out of Pretoria.

The “Rail Safari” offered carriages of various vintages and those seeking traditional wood paneling and brass fittings were not disappointed. 

The highlight of the overnight journey was for most of us, the game drive in Zimbabwe’s famous Hwange National Park.  

The same old train is operating but it’s not quite the same. It’s now even more comfortable and is under new ownership. Now called “Stimela Star”, the beautifully restored antique carriages are attached to the regular National Railways of Zimbabwe (NRZ) Victoria Falls to Bulawayo overnight passenger train. It’s called the “Stimela Star” because Stimela is quite literally the word used in Zimbabwe (and Zululand) for a train. It derives from the rhythm of the sound the old trains made. 

“Stimela Star” comfortably accommodates up to 24 passengers. Its four private carriages include two sleepers with twin berths – their mahogany doors and frosted windows still engraved with the old Rhodesian Railways initials – along with a dining car and a lounge. The dining car and lounge are each furnished with restored mid century chairs, sofas and tables that recall the days when travelling by train was popular. Original Formica still covers the carriage walls which contain contemporary photos of Hwange wildlife crossing these same tracks.

The present operators of the train tracked down several old Rhodesian Railways Premier Class sleeper carriages, some dating back to the 1920’s. They were discarded and gathering dust in Bulawayo railway workshops.

After lengthy negotiations with NRZ authorities the carriages were finally put back into service. Although the results don’t match the luxurious standards of South Africa’s Blue Train or Rovos Rail, the “Stimela Star” has its own nostalgic charm.  

There’s an interesting story attached to Ted Davidson, Hwange National Park’s first Park Warden. He rode this same train one night in 1928.  

Considered one of Africa’s three greatest Game Rangers, he came to work at Hwange as a 24 year old man, with nothing but a .303 rifle and a backpack. He had been given a map with lines drawn on it by the colonial authorities and had been told to turn the land into a game reserve. 

Davidson soon discovered that he was in charge of an enormous game reserve with no rivers running through it. During the long harsh dry season when the water holes evaporated, Hwange’s elephants migrated away. So, he started pumping underground water to refill the water holes year-round. 

With plenty of water, the elephants returned and stayed. Today they number more than 46,000, one of the largest herds in Africa. 

Hwange is also one of the few game reserves in Africa with a railway line running all the way across it.

During the night, the “Stimela Star” comes to a stop and is unhitched from the main NRZ night train at a siding bordering the Park. A few hours later, after a hot breakfast, one bids farewell to the faded lady and boards the awaiting safari vehicles for a morning game drive.

For an exciting taste of safari, in conjunction with Victoria Falls, this is a wonderful short holiday opportunity. 

If you would like to learn more about Victoria Falls and this rail journey please contact Graham for advice and assistance. graham.elsom@jebsenholidays.com